| | Subject: Using a Trigger to take Photos automatically | Posted: February 26, 2010 @ 9:12 AM | | How many of you have set up a camera to take pictures unattended?
What is your method?
I often use two cameras at a time to take pictures and find it very awkward.
I am in the process of setting up one Nikon D3 to take pictures as the competitors in an Event trip a IRA beam. I will be nearby taking pictures from a different angle.
I am using the Nikon ML-3.
There is a virtually identical but not interchangeable (meaning the IRA beam signature is different) ML-3A made by YongNuo for half the price.
The ML-3 works well for this except the camera normally has to sit at one end of the beam. This can result in taking pictures of their back or after they have gone by.
It can be set slightly after the "trip line" by using an extension cord. These are propitiatory, very expensive, and only 10 ft long.
I have just ordered the Nikon MC-26 adapter cord. Hopefully it will allow using my ML-2 to wirelessly extend the placement of the camera up to 300 ft after the trip line.
| This message was edited by RRRoger on February 26, 2010 @ 9:16 AM |
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| | | | | | Subject: Using a Trigger to take Photos automatically | Posted: February 26, 2010 @ 2:10 PM | | You should sign up, it is free to be a member of the General Chat.
I am going to paste this conversation into the thread for the benefit and feedback of all who are interested.
Both of the Nikon ML-2 and ML-3 units allow prefocusing remotely.
The ML-3 includes the trigger function.
The ML-2 can be used as a relay.
Also, my SB-800 flash recycles almost instantly if not on the brightest setting.
I shoot a D3 and rarely even need one flash.
I currently use it to scare my Beagle off the forbidden couch.
He has a doggie door and the run of the house at night.
Being the second owner of a 10 year old dog, it has been difficult to retrain him.
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Original Message On February 26, 2010 @ 1:00 PM
From: gym_shooter
To: RRRoger
Subject: RE: RE: Using a Trigger to take Photos automatically
Hi,
I'm currently not a member of the general forum, just Photocart. Your post caught my eye, I tried replying to the thread with my existing log in but was taken to a registration page so I thought 'can't be asked', hence the PM. Also it's early days in the testing process so do not want to build up hopes.
I cannot recall the name of the wireless unit, though the one you mention does not ring a bell, but it is modestly priced. I had considered doing my own thing for the wireless part as I have a fair expereince in this field - from a software point- but it seemed to make more sense to buy something off the shelf.
On subject of flash. I too have a need for flash sometimes and as we know flash guns take time to recycle. So one of the other things I was going to build in to the unit was a simple flash sequencer that could take output to three units. It would work by cycling through the outputs once a trigger is hit - on each shutter operation. The cycling sequence is such that it will allow the first gun/strobe-head time to recover while the next one is being triggered. With three heads, say, it would be possible to have full power, rapid flash from a cluster of heads - but only one firing at a time. Mounted on something like the Lastolite TriFlash Three Shoe Tilthead placed on a Monfroto four section light weight stand. Makes for a very portable arrangement.
I'm also trying to work out a practical way of allowing a focus point to be obtained (in mid-air) on the effective IR trigger plain from a distance- not on the trigger body itself. Reason I need to do this is when the trigger is placed on the floor or lighting stand in line with the desired target often the practical position of the trigger dictates it is placed some feet to one side of the target. If shooting wide open with minimal DOF and I pre-focus on the side of the trigger body, by swinging the lens back in line with the line-of-sight location, the actual focus point has shifted back (by simple trig). I have to find some way by which I can focus in thin air on an invisible plain (think of a Japanese fan) that is within the IR trigger zone. Of course I could get an assistant to stand in-line with the trigger, in the exact spot I want to focus on, trouble is I've no assistant 
Also early tests show it would be advantageous to allow remote delay control of the IR trigger device - in steps of uSecs or mSecs, I'm not sure yet. This would allow the photographer to compensate for an incorrectly placed trigger - saves having to walk back & adjust its position.
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Original Message On February 26, 2010 @ 11:48 AM
From: RRRoger
To: gym_shooter
Subject: RE: Using a Trigger to take Photos automatically
Gym Shooter,
Why don't you copy this and post it as a reply to my thread?
I think it would interest many shooters. Especially those with a Canon.
It sounds like you have that version of the YongNuo remote control set.
I have mine set to single fire because continuous often goes berserk.
It will fire the Camera + Flash and recycles very fast.
We need to set up the trigger line far ahead of the camera with the subject coming toward it in order to take the picture in the "DOF" zone. This may only be 20-40 feet, but outside the reach of most extension cables. I have thought about splicing in an Ethernet CAT cable, but prefer wireless.
RRRoger
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Original Message On February 26, 2010 @ 10:11 AM
From: gym_shooter
To: RRRoger
Subject: Using a Trigger to take Photos automatically
I've not sent a Personal Message to anyone on this forum before so I hope this makes it!
My full-time profession is a software engineer along with sports photography - I contract to event photo agencies as well as doing my own gigs. It was because of the difficulty of working on my own trying to capture all the action going on around that I decided to rig something up. I am experimenting with a IR sensor which triggers a wireless trigger that controls my camera which means I do not have to have line of sight between trigger and camera.
The components are off the shelf but modified. E.G. The IR lens is adapted to suite my needs to limit spurious triggers. The wireless unit was purchased from PayPal from a company in HK and has a effective distance of 100m.
The IR trigger is battery powered an can operate from a P9 type battery. Early days yet and the trigger is twitchy but the radio part is fine. Luckily the radio remote can be set up for continuous fire but I limit this through additional circuitry to five frames. To prevent things going badly wrong my 1D MK3 is configured to stop rapid shots after 8 frames. Once something went wrong during an experiment and the camera went bonkers!
After the first round of experiments are over I will probably stuff a micro processor in with the IR sensor to obtain fine control of its operation. After that I will probably equip the sensor with two way remote so that I can turn it off from a distance or adjust trigger parameters.
I am also working on a method where by I can accurately place the trigger within the DOF of a lens - of particular interests to me as many of my shots are indoors, no flash, wide open on fast moving targets.
Maybe something like this could fit the bill one day? |
| | | | | | Subject: Using a Trigger to take Photos automatically | Posted: March 31, 2010 @ 9:00 AM | | The ML-2 is compatible with the ML-3 but will not relay the trip signal
only the prefocus and shooting modes.
The ML-3 transmitter does not have a wired port,
so I cannot daisy chain them.
However, Fotocolo has the ML-3a so cheap on eBay that I already have an extra transmitter and will try to install a 2.5mm port. |
| | | | | | Subject: Using a Trigger to take Photos automatically | Posted: May 1, 2010 @ 10:16 PM | | Forget the port, there is no room and it would have to be soldered to the little card.
I have tried using the 3 wire ML-3a unit for the 5D2.
By cutting the receiver wire and adding a female 3.5mm stereo plug and a male stereo connector on the other side, I can add a 30 ft. stereo extension cord.
This works most of the time. I may have a loose connection.
I can also use a 3.5mm male to 2.5 female adapter and a $5 Aperture cord to connect to a D3 or D90.
This ML-3a has it's own battery so it can be used stand alone to trip a speed light to scare the SlouchPotato Beagle off my couch at night. |
| | | | | Dave | |  | | 2084 total posts | |
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| | Subject: Using a Trigger to take Photos automatically | Posted: June 12, 2010 @ 4:51 AM | | | I use Pocket Wizards to trigger remote cameras. |
| | | | | | Subject: Using a Trigger to take Photos automatically | Posted: June 12, 2010 @ 9:46 AM | |
Quoting: Dave
I use Pocket Wizards to trigger remote cameras.
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The Pocket Wizard is a very elegant and expensive option.
Can it be set up for automatic triggering?
The knockoff ML-3a + Extension and 3 Apture cords (Canon 5D2, Nikon D3, & D90) totals less than $75. It can also be used for other cameras and even auto triggering of flash units such as the SB-800.
To cut the 3 wire Canon 5D2 version and solder a female stereo connector to the receiver cost less than $25 including the solder and iron.
| This message was edited by RRRoger on June 12, 2010 @ 9:55 AM |
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